Es Moli d’en Bou
Tucked away on the east side of the Island of Mallorca in the small town of Sa Coma is one of the islands biggest treasures, Es Moli d’en Bou and at the helm, Tomeu Caldentey. This restaurant was the first on Mallorca to be awarded a Michelin Star and has held it ever since 2004. It was a challenge to find but we were thrilled with the unbelievable menu and the personal service.
Although the restaurant atmosphere was minimalist and a bit stark, we were seated at a very intimate round table for 6 in a secluded corner of the room. Manuel Perez the sommelier, took command of our table and with an 11 course tasting menu along with a flight of wine, we were set to enjoy an evening of spanish cuisine with a modern twist.
Prior to the 11 course menu, we were treated to a parade of amuse bouche starting with caramelized almond (almonds grow in abundance in Mallorca) and Mallorcan Coca sticks which is similar to a pizza dough then filled with olive tapanade. The next set came as a duo as well, Campari and orange marshmallow along with a deconstructed green olive martini. The gin and vermouth had been combined with agar agar to form a gel and the olives had been frozen with liquid nitrogen the pulverized. I’m not a big martini drinker but this was very fun.
Thinking this was the end, we were brought a try of 4 different canapes and a small mason jar filled with the most delightful olive oil pressed cheese balls rolled in dehydrated fresh herbs. When you opened the jar you were intoxicated with the aroma of the herbs. The canapes were a pa amb oli bonbon, Pressed chicken with garlic on a rice homemade chip, black olive cupcake with sobrasada and the most delicious of all Coca chip with foie gras. Okay now we have to be finished........Oh no..... arriving at the table were 3 tapas of the day. In a tin can, salmon sashimi with a cube of pineapple and pineapple gel started the trio followed by a crab and green pea mousse with red caviar then ending with a beetroot salad with puffed rice sticks. And yes that was the last of the Amuse Bouche.
The first course of asparagus en papillote served with jambon and oyster sauce is a dish I will definitely use for an appetizer at dinner parties. Number 2 was Mahon cheese (Mahon is one of a few cow's milk cheeses from Spain and boasts a certain sharpness. Its lemony, salty flavours evince the rural Mediterranean seascape.) wrapped in rice paper and served with a fresh salsa verde.
The Squid Parmentier with caramelized onions and green peas topped with a puddle of squid ink parmentier and a squid ink rice cracker could have had a bit more squid flavour to make it perfect and the Hake on a pool of red wine sauce was on the salty side.
The signature dish of the restaurant since it opened in 2001 was a cannelloni of duck smothered in mushrooms. I can see why their customers won’t let them take it off the menu. Dish 6 was a trio of suckling pork, pork tenderloin medallions, Pork cheeks and pork belly with crackling accompanied with a fresh orange sauce. The venison dish although impressively presented was the least favourite for everyone. Four pieces of venison were steamed in soy sauce in a bamboo basket then accompanied with a mango salsa and a raspberry and port sauce.
We have to be close to dessert....... ooh it looked like a sweet pudding with a bonbon....... Surprise!!!! it was Rabbit Cappuccino with chocolate and a foie gras truffle. The rabbit part was a rabbit and chocolate broth.
Okay I can see dessert on the horizon......... fooled again! It was Tomeu’s take on a cheese plate, French toast of goat cheese with a green apple granita. Yehh..... dessert had arrived..... strawberries with vanilla and liquorice foam followed by a frozen lime sorbet and then the grand finale Sweet Paella. The base was a saffron white chocolate sauce with chocolate cake cubes, mint gel dots, raspberry coulis and puffed rice. Impressive looking but I would have wanted something a bit sweeter to finish the meal with.
The wines were all well paired with 4 white, one red and a late harvestall from Spain. Chef Tomeu was a very gracious host and his staff all deserving of a Michelin Star. At the end of the evening, Manuel brought me a gift, a cook book featuring the 6 chefs in Mallorca that have received Michelin Stars. I would definitely return next time in Mallorca.
Es Moli d’en Bou