“Entertainment with every Bubble”
Sometimes it’s not what you know but “who” you know. Since living in Moscow I have made friends with some of the most fascinating people, one being a stunning Russian sommelier named Ksenia. She is one of the top female sommeliers in all of Russia and has been working at the 5 star Kempinski Baltschug for the past couple of years. Every so often, Ksenia hosts a special wine tasting and dinner to promote products that are available at the Kempinski. Yesterday we were invited to a Bollinger Champagne dinner that was wonderful, especially since my friends in Provence introduced me to drinking champagne for just the pleasure of the grape.
What better way to start an evening then with Champagne and oysters. Although the oysters were not Kusshi or White Pearl, but the Gillardeau oysters still made a great opening act with the accompanying mignonette slightly infused with chilli and vanilla and the Special Cuvee Brut. Before we started dinner, Export Area Director Guy de Rivoire gave us a short history on the House of Bollinger and its “Bubbles”. The backbone of Bollinger is the Pinot Noir and accounts for 60% or more in their champagnes. The final combination is a mix of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. As you know, only wines in France can be classified as Champagnes, the rest are considered “Sparkling”. To maintain the Champagne appellation all the fruit must be picked by hand. No wonder Champagne evokes such special feelings.
The Le Grande Année Rosé 2002 had a subtle jammy black current undertone that soothed the sea flavours of the Vitello Tonnato starter and the acidic dressing on the micro greens. Changing from the Rose to a 2000 La Grande Année brought out the oaky Chardonnay component of the champagne that enhanced the asparagus (one of the most difficult foods to pair a wine with) and parmesan of our risotto. Executive Sous Chef Gergo Gullner made an excellent decision to top the risotto with freshly shaved truffle instead of overpowering the dish with truffle infused oil.
I have always assumed that Champagne should be served in a flute but not so. The 1997 Bollinger R.D. (récemment dégorgé (recently disgorged) was served in a Burgundy glass and rightly so as to expose its full body. The outstanding aroma made it difficult to keep your nose out of the glass. Again it complimented the caramelized scallops but took the candied tomatoes to another level. This Champagne is one that everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime.
The evening finished with NV Bollinger Rosé Brut that mimicked the red fruit and black currents that topped the beautiful meringue dessert. I now have a better appreciation for Champagnes and agree with my friend Claire that Bollinger is one of the best. I can’t wait for my next adventure with Ksenia especially with the stunning view of Red Square from the Hotel Library!
I want to finish with a famous quote from the Queen of Bubbles.........
"I drink it when I'm happy and when I'm sad.
Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone.
When I have company I consider it obligatory.
I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and I drink it when I am.
Otherwise I never touch it, unless I'm thirsty."
Lily Bollinger,
17th October 1961, Daily Mail
“Entertainment with every Bubble”
